59 Chev Gen to Alt?

Hi! I have a 1959 Chevy Biscayne that I'm dropping a 350 in and will be switching from the original generator to the alternator on the donor '73 350. I am wondering if there is a step by step process somewhere out on the net for this. Everything I've run across seems pretty vague, and I want to get it done right, that and I only have about a month before Back to the 50's!

So basically, what do I need to do with the connections on the external regulator, and what do I need to do with the connections on the alternator?

And while I'm at it, what's the best way to measure a two-piece drive shaft before having it cut? So far it looks like the TH350 is about 7.5' longer than the 3spd that used to be in it.

Thanks for the help!

Cris, For the alt. get a single wire alt. they can be found at jc whitney for about $80 for an 80 amp. Install using the donor brackets, connect a 12 ga fusible link from the alt. Battery terminal, and 10ga. wire from the fusible link to the Battery wire the hooks to the external regulator (it should be a double RED wire connect at that point bypassing the external reg.). snip the arm and field wires or just tape them up. remove the regullator from the fire wall. then tape the new wiring into the exsisting harness down the fender well to the alt. Start your engine and rev to hi idle so it excites the feild then it will start charging and continue to charge at idle until you restart it. Each time you restart the engine a short rev will excite the feild to a charge state.

if you have an external reg. alt. already just get a reg. for the year of the donor and switch parts. wires should be the same, but I would install a12 ga. fusible link from the alt to the bat wire for safety.

for your drive shaft measure from the rear end u-joint yoke flats (where the u-bolts go thru) to the center line of the front yoke u-joint (with the yoke installed to the right depth, You can tell by the seal wear marks) for total lenght. Then measure from the rear end yoke flats to the centerline of the carrier bearing bolt holes so they line up if the shaft maker cuts both shafts. Tell the shaft maker thats how you measured so he can determine if the cut(s) will be accurate. You don't want it to short or to long, to short it can whip out of the trans on hard take offs and to long can jam your trans shaft over bumps putting a great deal of pressure on the carrier bearing.

The Car Stop in Orange will probably have the right harness for you. Painless Wiring is on the web and if they don't, they will probably build it for you and themselves. You can go with the 1 wire (internal reg.) alt. or the cheaper ext. reg. alt. I prefer the second as it one part goes, then you don't have to replace all. The easy way is to use the 1 wire and don't hook up the dash light. As far as the driveshaft, talk to a shop that specializes in driveshaft modification and they will tell you exactly how to measure. Don't take it to a general welder as he won't balance it and they do turn fast enough to kill a set of U-joints quickly. Be glad you're shortening the shaft. Bob May

Bob's 409 Chevy Page
http://silverstone.fortunecity.com/tvr/246/ bob_s_409_chevy_page_index...